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Chinatown Char Siu Ribs Or Pork

I love the "barbecued" pork and ribs in Chinatown. They have a distinct pork flavor, a glossy sheen that implies the sweet glaze beneath, and a glowing red-pink color that penetrates the surface. Unlike traditional Southern American low and slow smoke roasted barbecue ribs, there is no smoke flavor, even though there is a pink ring beneath the surface of the meat. How do they do it? Well, it turns out that Char Siu, even though it sounds like charcoal, is not grilled or smoked. It is roasted in a special oven, usually gas fired. And most of the time it gets its ruddy tone from red food coloring (some chefs use a red bean paste, or beets, but that's not common). But it still tastes great. You can buy Char Siu sauce in Chinese specialty stores, but it is thick and gooey. It makes a fine glaze, but it doesn't make ribs that taste like Chinese restaurant ribs. That's because you need to marinate the meat first. I've worked on this recipe for a while and I think I've really nailed the technique for making Chinatown Char Siu Ribs at home in the oven or on the grill. Here's how to do this dizzingly delicious favorite. This marinade is especially good on pork, but I used it on chicken, turkey, and duck with great success.

INGREDIENTS

The meat
Ribs: 2 slabs of baby back ribs, cut into individual bones
Pork: 4 pounds pork loin cut into strips across the grain, about 1" wide, 2" tall
The marinade
1/2cup hoisin sauce
1/2cup brandy (or rum or bourbon)
1/4cup honey
1/4cup soy sauce
2tablespoons toasted sesame oil
2tablespoons hot sauce such as Tabasco
2tablespoons powdered ginger
2tablespoons powdered onion
1tablespoon powdered garlic
1tablespoon five spice powder
1teaspoon red food coloring

INSTRUCTIONS

1.1) Mix the marinade thoroughly in a bowl. Don't skip the booze. It helps penetrate, and even if you're a teetotaler, don't worry, there isn't any measurable alcohol in the meat. Yes, I know alcohol can dry meat out, but I just think it works well in this case. If you must skip it, use apple juice or water, but booze is better. You can substitute fresh ginger and garlic for powdered ginger and garlic if you wish.
2.2) Marinate the meat for at least 1 hour in a metal bowl or zipper bags. Overnight is better. Discard the used marinade. It is contaminated with meat juice. Don't marinate in a plastic bowl. The coloring might stain it.